July 31, 2008

Pucon: Pretty Much Our Favorite Pueblo Ever!


Volcán Villarrica

Day 1: Wake up at 4:30 a.m. in San Martin de los Andes, Argentina to catch the 6 a.m. bus to Pucon, Chile. Within about 2 hrs. we hit customs and the border crossing which consisted of: Argentine Customs, quick, but then a dog walks through the bus!, drive 2 minutes then Chilean customs where they scan our bags. So, I had collected these amazing driftwood pieces from Lago Puelo and Lago Hermoso, but had to ditch them because Chile wouldn't allow them...wood, wood, it's just wood! Well, Im over it now.

We arrive in Pucon and head to Hostel Backpacker's, the coolest and most amazing hostel we've ever stayed at, hands down. Claudio, the owner, is so awesome that we stayed 5 nights 6 days. Oh, and he also runs his own adventure tours as well. Therefore, it was noon on arrival and within 2 hrs. we were rafting class 3/4 rapids in freezing water and pouring rain. It was amazing and the rain and cold temps only added to the experience. After the rafting journey we decompressed at the hostel and within another 2 hrs. are at the hot springs just chilling. Day one, long and incredible.

Day 2: With day one being long and on the go, today we just chilled out. We woke up late, made breakfast, visited the town, relaxed at the hostel, made dinner and relaxed some more. Pucon, the town, is very low key yet has all anyone could need. The people are super friendly and the town is purely devoted to outdoor adventure activities. By the way, at this point we are just waiting for a clear day to peak Volcan Villarrica.

Day 3: VOLCANOE. Wake up at 6:30 a.m. to Claudio saying, "Today's the day." We fly out of bed, gear up and eat a quick breakfast. The crew consisted of nearly 13 of us plus 4 guides. We get near the take off point but had to stop so the guides could put chains on the van to even get us there. That new snow would also explain why the ascent was so difficult. We all unload and gear up and I attach my board to my pack and am ready to roll. D is ready and waiting with an ice pick in hand. We go. The guides set a pace against our liking; long routes with long breaks instead of shorter routes with more frequent quicker breathers. It made the hike even harder.

As we leave the ski resort area and are heading to unchartered fresh power tracks, D and the other girl with us turn back after hours of extreme snow hiking. Honestly, I felt like I was ready to turn back. I trekked on. My legs burning I kept on until an hour from the top. The weather shifted and the cold, snowy and windy air aided my decision to detach the board and surf the freshy all the way down. Julian, the dude we met at the hostel, and I strapped up and flew down. Overall, ridiculous experience that I would do again any day.

Day 4: We both feel like we got rolled by a steam engine! Today was to be relax day, but I got tempted to bike...30 miles. Why, I do not know. From the hike the day before I was struggling on the uphill, which was nearly half the bike ride! Well, I kept on with our Brazilian buddy Hugo and we went past Ojos del Caburgua waterfalls and all the way to Lago Caburgua. Along the way we saw Claudio and the hostel crew doing our bike route in a van...too easy, biking was cooler!

Day 5: Relax. Have tea and coffee. Relax. Chill at hostel. Decide on our next stop on our great adventure. Chillan, here we come. Goodnight.

Day 6: Wake up, eat breakfast and peace out to Nevados de Chillan for snowboarding.

Overall, Pucon is amazing. Que buena onda! Between the adventures, the outdoors, the hostel and Claudio, it was impressive. We hope to be back soon, Chao.

Pucon, Chile Photo Gallery

Pucon...the Pueblo
...and more Pueblo!
Day One Rafting Crew
Dani, Ear to Ear in Pucon
So Happy...Before the Climb
Getting Harder
There Goes Dani
and Aaron w/ the Crew
Marching Band of Penguins
Pow Pow Nar Nar
Into the Mystic
Me and Hugo (Brasil) Bike Ride
Follow the signs to...
Ojos del Caburgua Waterfalls
...and Lago Caburgua at Dusk

Road Trip: Ruta de los Siete Lagos (7 lakes route) and El Bolson

We packed up to leave Bariloche and decided it best to rent a car to head back down to El Bolson and hit up the best little "feria" we'd seen. The only thing left on our Bariloche list (except the snowboarding bit) was the Seven Lakes tour; a drive from Bariloche to San Martin de los Andes, passing through Villa la Angostura and then back. Since we wanted to cross into Pucon, Chile just north of S.M. de los Andes, we decided to cut the return drive and ditch the car in San Martin. Thankfully, the weekend weather was forecasted to be sunny and beautiful.

Friday morning we loaded up in the car and said goodbye to Bariloche for good. Since we had the whole day to make it to Bolson, we planned to visit Mt. Tronador (the black glacier) and Cascada Los Alerces (waterfall) as detours along the way. We got pumped riding the amazing little VW Gol we rented down the dirt path, passing the park closed sign without thinking twice because they make you pay in the summer. Unfortunately, the road had actually flooded over from the lake and there was no way we could pass in our little Gol that was only 6 inches off the ground! We backtracked a bit disappointed, wondering what to do the rest of the day! We turned off the main road just before reaching Bolson to check out a small pueblo nearby. El Maiten is also known as "La Trochita" because of it's history with steam engine lines or something (ask Aaron if you're really interested). The drive turned out to have amazing views, so we decided to suck up the 50 km dirt/gravel/stone road. An hour later we were once again stopped by an overflowing river that had litterally taken over the road! Unreal!

The river road to La Trochita

We turned back and enjoyed the dune buggy ride back in our unstoppable little Gol! We of course returned to the Casa del Viajero in Bolson, hoping to have the little house to ourselves. Much to our surprise, there were two french girls staying in the house and two other americans! It's truely a small world when you run into two random people speaking english in a small artesania store, who also happen to be the two americans staying in the house with you, that actually already know who you are! Karl and Liz had met Drew in Bariloche, the guy we had road tripped down to Bolson with just two weeks before! They'd all decided to head skiing in Esquel since there was no snow in Bariloche. After hearing Drew's stories about our awesome trip there, they headed up to Bolson to check it out! Crazy small world! The feria on Saturday was even better than the last time; more people, more booths and more sun! After spending way to much money and having some delicious waffles, we started back north to do the Seven Lakes tour. Needless to say, the views were amazing! Even caught the sunset!

Doesn't even look real!

We drove past Bariloche and around the lake to Villa la Angostura where we spent the night. The next day we woke up to do the most scenic leg of the trip, typically closed in the winter due to too much snow. The mountain pass connects Villa la Angostura to San Martin de los Andes and takes you right by the (more than) seven lakes along the way! The morning was cold and everything in sight was covered in frost. Gorgeous!

Patagonian frost

After turning down a dirt path away from Lago Nahuel Huapi, we reached Lago Espejo, rightfully named "Lake Mirror." Next was Lago Correntoso, where we were abruptly stopped by a man on the side of the road waving his hands in the air for us to stop. Thinking he wanted us to take a picture, we pulled over and got out. The man and his son were running along the side of the road looking down into the woods. They had just seen a puma run cross the road. We chased after them and for one amazing moment, Aaron saw the puma's entire body with his face turned towards them in a clearing! Then in an instant it was gone! We continued on passing Lagos Escondido, Villarino, Falkner, Hermoso, Machonico, and finally Lacar, whose shores line San Martin de los Andes. We decided to stay an extra day to explore the town and hike to the mountain lookout points. San Martin is a relatively large mountain town, that maintains a small, rustic, mountain lodge vibe. A true Patagonian feel.. but it was on to Chile next!!

July 30, 2008

Siete Lagos Photo Gallery

Our bad ass VW Gol!
Lago Mascardi, Ruta 40
Roadside towards El Bolson
Looky, Looky...
Detour to El Maiten
Stunning scenery
Golden sunset
Photoshopped?
Mountain haze
Erupting sunset
1st of 7, Lago Espejo
Morning fog
Roadside river
Hangin' out
Winter wonderland
Sun baking, Lago Hermoso
Playa at Lago Lacar
Nature surfing
Mountain civilization
Atop San Martin de los Andes
Mirador, Lago Lacar
Got it! It keeps..
Going and going, and going!
The adventure continues...

July 25, 2008

Bariloche: Rain on our Parade

The views from the bus into Bariloche may be the most picturesque we'd seen, but the treat we got at the bus terminal was definitely a different wecolme than we'd had in any other city.
Welcome to Bariloche:
Bariloche Bus Terminal
We were pumped to spend the next month snowboarding on Cerro Catedral and returning to our little house in the woods. We had barely settled in to the adorable home when we decided to head out to El Bolson for the weekend. After at least one heatless night in Bolson, we were all very excited for our first experience with legitimate central heat and we invited everyone to crash at the house for a sleepover...
Our very own Casa Rosada
Little did we know that rain was on the horizon, and had no intentions of leaving for a very very long time! When the rain began, it went on for days. It poured all night long and we awoke everyday to more rain... light rain, thunderstorms, heavy rain, drizzle and then more rain! Needless to say, there would be no snowboarding on cerro caterdral and all other activities were doomed to be done wet! At least we had a warm house, buried in the woods, a few hundred meters from Lago Gutierrez to cozy up in. Around the lake are various campgrounds and trails, one which leads to a beautiful waterfall, another up to a lookout point at the top of the mountain, and another about 10 kilometers away to a mountain house, Refugio Frey. We explored our lago and the wonders it had to offer. Unfortunately the refugio is closed during winter (and somehow the over 6 mile hike, all uphill, in the rain, did not sound as appealing when you couldn't dry off and stay overnight, having to turn around and hike the 6 miles down).
Lago Gutierrez
We made the best of it and spent a few days in town, exploring the restaurants, swiss style chocolates and ski shops. We took the bus up to the famous Llau Llau Hotel and feasted on their popular Llau Llau tea, which includes all you can eat on the amazingly beautiful pastry table. After many hours and a "taste" of nearly everything in the spread, we could have rolled ourselves back home. We also visited caves formed by the area's former volcano, sliding through tiny passages to reach the largest inner cave with a hidden laguna. We decided two weeks of rain had taken it's toll on our spirits and with no snow on the horizon, it was time peace out of Bariloche. We decided to rent a car, head back down to El Bolson for the feria artesanal (one more time!) and then turn back to drive the infamous Ruta de Los Siete Lagos.

Bariloche Photo Gallery

Villa Coihues, our neighbors
Lago Gutierrez
Woods to the casada
Freshy..
At the Llau Llau..
Enjoying some tea and pastries..
Until nightfall.
Cavernas del Viejo Volcan
Darkness inside the cave
Nightime in Downtown Bariloche